Lubricant Cocktails… (i.e., oil additives)

[(Tattoo) Jack]

    I wish I could've copied this article, but it's a .pdf file. Once you open this go to page 82, (move your curser over the article and Left Click to enlarge), read the Q and A for Lubricant Cocktails. It's really well worth the reading!

myvirtualpaper.com/doc/Offroad-Adventures-Magazine/sept09_final/2009082501/?r=5778_6411

[Death Wobble]

    I wish I could've copied this article, but it's a .pdf file. Once you open this go to page 82, (move your curser over the article and Left Click to enlarge), read the Q and A for Lubricant Cocktails. It's really well worth the reading!
myvirtualpaper.com/doc/Offroad-Adventures-Magazine/sept09_final/2009082501/?r=5778_6411

"As to mixing them yourself, it can be good or bad.  You have to have deep knowledge of the oils being mixed to know".
In other words, try it on someone else's vehicle until you get the formulation right! 
I saw, "cocktails" and thought I was going to learn something that I missed in Old Mr. Boston's book.  Charlie will probably see "lubricant" and take this thread and run with it...

[(Tattoo) Jack]

   Yeah... I'll bet the Tuna will be thinking  "Hmmmmm... mixing KY and Jim Beam  


   

[Rick_Bear]

Well, I have some input to add that comes from my personal experiences.
I have over time converted engines from conventional oil to synthetic with very positive results.

I had always done so on a 10% basis....During a scheduled oil change I would substitute 10% of the conventional oil with synthetic oil until the entire system was running with synthetic.
I have NEVER personally had any issues that this article reports to its readers.

The 10% rule every 3,000 miles has NEVER caused issues with my vehicles. All four since have actually ran better, smoother, and cooler.

Take from this article what you wish. But I don't believe it one bit. Convert your motor oil in small increments at a time and there should be no related factors afterwards.
My 1991 Dodge Cummins Diesel Pick-Up Truck is 30% away from being completely converted and has shown NO signs of dismay....It has actually shown improvement through this process.
I don't recommend converting 100% immediately with an older motor. Yes, you could experience gasket leaks (not always) since synthetic oils are thinner than conventional oils.
I also believe that there is NOTHING wrong with continuing to run conventional oil either....A good product that has been proven for longer than any of us have been on this planet.

[N3IW]

   Yeah... I'll bet the Tuna will be thinking  "Hmmmmm... mixing KY and Jim Beam  

This is beginning to sound like it should be in the thread with the hot tub......

[Davew]

I'm a big fan of syn. oil , but with that said with use whatever oil makes you feel warm and fuzzy if it is changed when needed you will never have an oil related engine failure.(really no need for additives) The main reason there are leaks reported once conventional oil has been replaced with syn. oil  is due to "false seal", dyno oil will create varnish at the sealing surface and syn. oil will wash that away if the seal is questionable it will leak . I'm not a fan of converting over on high mileage engines just for the reason stated above.  If you want more info on oil than you will ever need or want check out this sitehttp://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[CJ8Ted]

I've heard a bad story (guy at work) of syn. mixing with H2O and making a stickey mess. (did not see this or know what brand oil it was) Water contamination is not uncommon in the Jeep world, "when in doubt change it out"  if you think you may have been in the drink a little to long new fluid is cheep. And no I don't buy the cheepest stuff. Not sure you want to dispose of the most expensive stuff on the shelf cuz it may or may not have been contaminated. In two of three shops I worked in as soon as the air compresser crank case was switched to syn. the polycarbinate bowls in the air system crack. Common fact syn. is the 100% cause of this. I know I dont have any poly bowls on my Jeep but I don't know if any of the seals, or the plastic items in or on my motor share the same structure as poly Yes "dino" oil breaks down quicker than "syn" that is why you change it out. The other reason to change your oil is to get the dirt out that the filter does not catch, why let that dirt in there for three times longer
 
Guess I'm old school, stick with what works.

Ted

[chasm]

Since Ted mentioned "Old School" I started thinking ( I know... dangerous!) about the "knuckle pudding" the old timers had to come up with for the closed knuckles on the old Willys 4wd vehicles. Regular grease won't whip up and lube the moving parts and heavy weight gear oil runs out slowly and makes a mess on your garage floor, brake drums, etc. The old timers used to mix grease and oil, and cook it in a pot on the stove until they got a semi-fluid grease. (I'm sure that would go over well at home in my kitchen!) Fortunately, a company named PennRite has come out with a commercial line of lubricants for vintage vehicles... including semi-fluid knuckle grease... and steering box lube for the old worm gear and sector shafts!