IMO, it would be better to measure for the shocks and bumpstops after the lift and tires are installed, flex it and see how far you can go and not rub, then you'll know exactly what length you'll need. You might have to buy those shock "adapters" to be able to use shocks with Eyes @ both ends. This will give ya a wider variety shocks to chose from.
  A picture of a raised rear shock mount (you can buy) is here
http://www.tntcustoms.com/page.asp?pageid=153Â Other way to raise the mount is to buy a spring perch and cut it in half, weld a shock bolt to it and then weld it to the tube.
  As far as bumpstops are concerned, you can just buy stock (or after market) bumpstops and put some square tube stock (1/2", 1", 1.25" etc.) between the stop and the frame to adjust the distance it hangs down, kinda like a spacer. For the front, you can use Hockey Pucks. They cost about a $1 a piece (at D.i.c.k.'s, and other Sporting Goods stores) and are about 1 inch thick. With the front coils off, jack up the axle (with tire on) to see how far up you want it to go, measure the distance between stop and spring seat (also between shock mounts), you drill and Tap the bottom spring seat, drill a hole in the Puck, and get the appropriate bolt length/size and after installing the springs, install the Pucks and bolt them down.
  Remember bumpstops not only stop the tires from hitting the body, but also stop you from bottoming out the shocks, which can damage them. So the measurements are for BOTH the upward movement of the tires and the
minimum length of the shocks. Of course, "Droop" is limited by shock travel, the longer the travel the farther the Droop, but now you have to worry about brake lines. This is a good example of how changing one thing can affect,
what seems to be, unrelated "things" downstream.
  Hope this made senseÂ
and was helpfull.
  Tattoo
