What did you do to your Jeep today?

[(Tattoo) Jack]

"Are you SURE that there's nothing else wrong with it"? 

   Whatdaya mean...... Of course NOT, It's an XJayyyyyyyyy 

[Charlie]

Oh....here we go! XJ, XJ.

Can I get a what-what for a TJ?  Hollaaaaaaaa.

[Death Wobble]

Anybody else ever go to Peterson Brothers garage on S. Sherman St.?  I defy you to find a grimier, filthier, smellier cluttered garage in all of York County, but they have great service! 

[N3IW]

What What

[chasm]

I drove the YJ trail rig to work today... topless! (Tuna, please spare the comments about my cold nipples... I know how you think!)

The Rubicon went to the Jeep dealer for a MyGig computer update and to get a couple things tweaked while I still have a few thousand miles on my bumper to bumper waranty! 

[Jeepnharleymomma]

Well I changed the oil, filled the antifreeze to find out the rad is leaking from a hole where it was soldered together so I fixed that then put the rear axle seal in the end of the tube where shaft and wheel decided to fall off last week.  Now I am going to wash it so it is purdy for this weekend.

[Charlie]

Mike,

I like ya but you're not built the way I like em. 

[hillbilly]

finally worked on my jeeps some put a new radio in the green one (still havent fixed the exhaust, but i did remove the pretty gold chain) fixed the exhaust on the beast and changed fluids for winter. and took one last trip through the river to clear the mud off.

[pmorris]

New Shoes for my JK.. Mickey Thompson MTZ's 33" and Procomp Rims. Now I feel like I'm ready to start wheelin!

[(Tattoo) Jack]

 
  WOW... where do I start. A few weeks back I R&R the muffler (Flowmaster 40 series) and tail pipe. Not sure I like the muffler, it's REALLY loud    I like a some tone, but not sooo much inside. It might get changed. I must say though... buying an Air Chisel (ranks up there just behind Impact Gun and Air Ratchet) as one of the best tool purchases so far 

    Shortly thereafter I did a "Hack & Tap" SYE like this naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008&highlight=rear+drive+shaft (just view the first 2 posts)  It wasn't too bad    I bought the Yoke (3103-27CV) in Harrisburg from Mshar Driveline for $50 and change. At Quigley4x4.com/ I got the eBay rear DS (I replaced all U-Joints) balanced (just a little off) and the original front DS rebuilt (it was really out of whack), it's running smoooooooooth. The only downside I can think of now is  I'll probably get a speeding ticket annnnd I can hear ALL kinds of noises, some not so good 

    Today "she" is @ Emory's getting the T-Case/Tranny serviced and checked out. I believe I need a new Chain (w/o Alice in it), but we'll see what the Expert says. I'm also having Royal Purple used as the lubricant (like I use in the Rears). Ed asked me, "are you sure, this is the Best Stuff out there, but it is expensive". Yeah it's expensive, but if you figure the cost of the best "regular"  fluid and substract that cost from RP it'll cost me about $22.50 more per unit for the very best and it's not like I'll be changing it every 3 or 4 thousand miles, it'll be in there for a long time. AND if the ads, and research, is correct, I'll actually be transferring more HP to the wheels (also Less Friction = more mpg) so in the long run it'll save me money. Of course, everyone has their favorite Brands, but If you consider how much more WE depend on the Rears, T-Case/Tranny performance and how much $$$ we spend on improving them, does it really make fiscal sense to use whatever is on sale 

   That's what I did lately....

   Tattoo

[Death Wobble]

Just ordered my XJ Rock Sliderzzzzz!  Are they here yet?  Are they here yet?. 

[(Tattoo) Jack]

   
    R&R my steering linkage (Drag Link and Tie Rod) with Crown's HD steering kit. For the price it's not a bad deal, it is HD and it's a direct bolt-on. Bought it through Eric (kNOwWhere2Jeep).
    R&R the Tie Rod end of my Adjustable Panhard Bar.

    Ordered Rusty's Fender Flares (Scratched Sale for the Fronts, $40 each) and $180 for the "New" Rears. Arrived in 2 dayz. Ended up getting ALL NEW, not sure if it's just great Customer Service (in case they didn't have any more scratched Fronts after I paid) or REALLY GREAT marketing    Think about it, you list part of a complete set for 1/2 off to intice purchases. If so, IT WORKED ON ME     Now to cut the fenders get 'em installed.

   Bid on a BNIB Cobra 25 NW WX ST CB. The current Bid was really low so I figured I'd bump it a notch, well... no one else Bid so I got it for a pretty fair price. Took it Dave at dtbradio.com/ and had it "Supertuned". I know most of ya's are down in York, or farther, but anyone up within reach of Carlisle should Give Dave a call. Good work, fair prices, and best of all, Honest Opinions on what works and what doesn't.

   Tattoo

[hillbilly]

wow lots of jeep work replaced the exhaust on the ole lady's xj, finally.
 replaced the valve cover and gasket on the submarine trying to prevent the oil leak issue and a new horn so no more finger waving lol.
and working on locating the cb over head to prevent loss in case of future floods.

[N3IW]

Spent the day at Mt. Zion Offroad:

Replaced bent left front and right rear lower control arms.
Welded steel plate on all 4 lower control arms for reinforcement.
Installed Crown heavy duty tie rod, drag link and ends kit.
Alignment.

[(Tattoo) Jack]

 
  Yes, I had Mike and the Crew (@ Mt. Zion) make up, and weld, Skid Plates on my LCA brackets. They take a beating when ya play near Rocks    (That's a hint for ALL those who run Coil Spring suspensions, front and/or rear)  I prefer this type of skid plate quadratec.com/products/12561_100.htm  NOT this type quadratec.com/products/12529_200.htm  Now I DON'T have anything against Skid Row products, They're a local company and they make some really nice products, I just don't like this design. First, there are bolt heads down where the rocks could be hitting them, 2nd, the bottom hangs just a tad below the LCA bracket and if you just glide over a rock/obstacle and need to back up you'll snag the bottom of the plate. The advantage of Skid Row's design is if you need to work on just  the axle end of the LCA, you should (if the bolt heads are not damaged) just unbolt the skid plate. The design I have I need to unbolt the frame end of the LCA first and then unbolt the front and pull it out. How often you need to do this, not very. Which design you choice, as always, is your choice.

   Chip, did your Tie Rod have a "curve", or bend in it, like the Tie Rod for a ZJ?
 
   My next purchase will be the Steering Box Brace (I will have plating on both sides of the frame rail done whenever I get my new front bumper rigidco.com/FbLTD.htm). I'll just ordered the Steering Brace from Eric. I figured now that I beefed up the steering linkage, the next time I try to force those 33's up against a big rock the gear box might decide to tear loose from the frame rail and this brace will help reduce that leverage.

   Tattoo