I have a leak

[Leonard]

I noticed it this morning, I think it's my outer seal gone bad on the passenger side, can somebody verify from this picture?
http://millerlw.multiply.com/photos/album/6

And I coud swear there used to be a piece of plastic, dirt guard, that used to sit in there someplace.

This pic isn't my axle, I found it on the internet.

Thaniks,
Leonard

[Rick_Bear]

Yes, that could very well be a bad outer seal or it's no longer sitting flush. If it gets "tweeked" out of possition it should be replaced.

Have you done any axle work to have caused this...? Or has the leak just simply appeared...?

[Leonard]

It just appeared.  It was fine last week, then we went to Shamokin this weekend, so I'm guessing it was just time for it to go since we didn't do any tough wheeling.  I don't have the tools to fix this type of thing, so I guess I'm having it towed.  This is going to cost some money, and that's like a $10 part.   Crazy.

Thanks,
Leonard

[Leonard]

I think my rear pinion seal is bad also, but that shouldn't be too hard to replace.  I just need to get a seal puller and some lube.

[Joe Giglio]

I just replaced this seal on my Jeep last night. It was not the easiest thing I have done and I have not seen the thing in daylight yet to know if I fixed it. The seal is replaced from inside the vacuum disconnect access. I made a makeshift slide hammer from threaded rod, a 1/2" drive impact socket and the back side of the correct diameter hole saw. I was able to pull the seal into place easier than I thought. You might be able to fix this yourself.

Joe

[hillbilly]

does you jeep have the cad on it? what kind of jeep do you have? and yes its a seal, that coal mud up there at shamokin is nasty on seals that why i went with axle tube seals from alloy usa and they work wonders, i play in the mud alot and there worth it.

[Leonard]

It's a 91 YJ with a stock Dana 30 on it.  The dirt guard is missing from that side, so I'm guessing that's what happened, but the drivers side is still there.  I may go with those tube seals, they look like they would be worth it.
It's a YJ, so I'm assuming it has the CAD, I thought all YJ's did.

[hillbilly]

no not all have them. if you dont then the axle seal is in pumpkin area not in the tube.

[CJ8Ted]

I think my rear pinion seal is bad also, but that shouldn't be too hard to replace.  I just need to get a seal puller and some lube.

Yes, the pinion seal is not to hard to do, unless you do it correctly I'm prety sure the 35 is a crush collar. you should get a new one, pull the shafts and carrier and get the pinion preload with the new seal and new nut and that new crush sleave that takes about 200lbs+++ to start crushing. Tigthen untill you achive proper rotational torque in inch lbs.
As for the front the inner seals, they are one of the hardest seals to do on a Jeep  IMO

Ted 

[Rick_Bear]

Yeah, Ted is correct there....IMO they are difficult but if you take your time and be precise you will be fine.
Back in the day I did them with a 2"x4" and a rubber mallot with success. I'm not suggesting you go that route, but it can be done.

The pinion seal is very easy to do. That can be positioned with one whack of a mallot as well but if you've never "whacked" one in with one shot do as Ted mentioned.
You don't want that being positioned other than even for an exact seal. Otherwise you'll be doing it again down the road. Once the seal is in, that's it...IF done wrong, no mulligans can be taken...it's done and needs replaced.

[Leonard]

Well, it doesn't have lock-out hubs, so I'm saying yes to the CAD.

I appreciate all of the information, I will probably fix the pinion seal myself, but don't think I will try the front seal, that sounds like it's a difficult job for somebody that has never done it, and I can't afford to have the wheel fall off during the test drive.

Should I scratch/scrbe/mark the nut/drivershaft/yoke alignment before doing the pinion?

Perfect time to replace my missing torque wrench and get some other tools.  YEA CRAFTSMAN!!!

[CJ8Ted]

Yes, the pinion seal is not to hard to do, unless you do it correctly I'm prety sure the 35 is a crush collar. you should get a new one, pull the shafts and carrier and get the pinion preload with the new seal and new nut and that new crush sleave that takes about 200lbs+++ to start crushing. Tigthen untill you achive proper rotational torque in inch lbs.  

This is what I thought about the rear pinion. It is not just put in a new seal. Inproper pinion preload can result in total rear end failure.

As for the front the inner seals, they are one of the hardest seals to do on a Jeep IMO

This is what I thought about the front D30 inner seals. You do not have to remove the pinion to do these seals (but I would to inspect the bearings and replace the seal) just as much work as a rear, if not a little more. They can be a pain to get in because it is a very tight press fit between the seal and tube. Driving them in with a long pc of pipe through the tube or prying inside the chunk can be tuff.


Hope this clears up my first post. If you are able to do the rear pinion seal correctly you should be able to do the front inners. Dont forget new pinion nuts , they are lock type nuts that should not be reused. You will also need a new crush collar.

Ted