Jeeper needs some help this weekend...

[Deadpool]

I need some assistance figuring out what's actually wrong with my front Dana 30 axle. i was told the locker is busted, but didn't confirm that myself. Unfortunately, I have no garage, and only hand tools to work with.

What I'm looking for is someone that can give me a hand with pulling this apart and seeing what is wrong, someplace to work, and assistance pulling the u-joints out of a set of Dana 30 front axles if there is something that can't be easily fixed to make the jeep drive-able.

I realize that this is short notice, and kinda fast. I just have been dealing with an issue with a local shop and if anyone wants to know about it, I'll fill them in. But if you can give me a call or text (717-307-8881) if you are able to give me a hand. I can drive it, just not daily. I'll be getting an inspection this weekend as well (went up last month, but has been in the shop and unmovable since the 17th of September).

Thank you and it's greatly appreciated!!!


If someone just tried to send me a PM, my work system won't let it go through. Send me a message here, or text my phone. I have it right beside me and I'll not be back here until later.

[HANGMAN]

what jeep has broken dana 30 , your 1998 tj ?

do you have lockout hubs ?

do you know what locker you have ( brand name ) ?

[Deadpool]

Yes, my 98 TJ.

No, does not have lock-out hubs.

I believe it's a Richland Lock-Right (that's what I was told from the person I bought the axle from in Texas).

I don't know if it's a pin & spring issue, or if it's a busted housing. But before just pulling the axle shafts and spliting the u-joints, I was told to check the locker itself and see what specifically is busted before starting the break down & removal of the inner axle shafts.

[hillbilly]

got a location, we got members from all over on here

[Deadpool]

I'm in Chambersburg, but have no garage and only have hand tools.

That's one of the issues, as well as not exactly knowing what I'm looking at. I just will be guessing myself because I have to get this ready to pass inspection (which should be no issue in & of itself), but also get it so that it can be driven without issue. Right now, it will drive, but it feels & sounds like the front locker is engaged even after I have dropped the front drive shaft.

I have verified that the 2wd & neutral do not have the front drive shaft engaged, but it didn't matter. Still couldn't turn in parking lots driving slow, or steer the car in slow situations at all. And when letting OFF the gas (to shift gears, or just to let off the gas to coast) the steering wheel would pull quickly to the left (driver side). This was ONLY when letting off the gas. Now, with the front driveshaft removed, it's not doing it, but still has the sound that you get when the locker is engaged.

That is the issue, in & of itself, and it's where I need the assistance of someone that knows what they are looking at, and such. I was just going to say screw it and start trying to split the U-Joints in the front axles and removing the inner axle shafts and just having the outer shafts for holding the axle hub together. But, again, like I said, don't have the tools to make this a job that won't make it easier. I DO have an extra set of front Dana 30 axle shafts, so if that is the route, if it's easier to split the axles that are out, and pull the installed ones and just throw in the split outer shaft, then that's a possibility as well.

[(Tattoo) Jack]

   I know this sounds too simple, but do you have the same size tires on the front axle and are they inflated to the same pressure? Tires spinning at different speeds will cause "auto" Lockers to do funny things.

   Hope this helps.

[Deadpool]

Yes, they are inflated to the same pressure. Yes, they are the same size. There is some damage to the front locker, but to what extent I'm not sure. I have had it diagnosed for claim purposes against the original shop that worked on it and did unauthorized diagnostics and messed up the vehicle. I didn't see the locker damage myself, and don't know what I'm looking for, but just know that I have to figure out what to do with it so that it's drivable without causing more damage to anything. I was told to pull the diff cover and start moving the tires and seeing what I find with the locker and go from there. I was just going to pull the inner axle shafts and put the outer shafts back in and let it go until I can replace the locker, but it might not need replaced. Could be as simple as pins and springs, but I won't know until I pull it apart and see what's going on. But that's the major issue right now.

Appreciate the suggestion and ideas.

[HANGMAN]

would this front axle have the vacuum motor axle disconnect on it ?
drivers side axle shaft enters the locker , if locker is broke and not unlocking the next slip spline joint would be at the shift fork and the shift collar , this joint may not be disconnecting the passenger axle shaft , that would make steering funny , pull up a parts diagram to see the setup of your axle .
just a thought .

[Deadpool]

No, this doesn't have a disconnect like you are referring. It's just a "lunchbox" locker that is in the front Dana 30.
The issue is in the front diff itself, not in the shift forks or anything like that. The locker is still sounding engaged even after I drop the front drive shaft. It has been verfied that the front driveshaft was NOT getting torque from the transfer case.

[(Tattoo) Jack]

   
     Well... to make it drivable, pull the DS, pull the Axle Shafts (simple, but usually not easy the first time), drain the Lube (the Differential won't be turning plus it will keep ur Tubes dry), plug the Axle Shaft Tubes (to keep dirt n stuff out). You'll need a short 13mm 16 pt socket for the Bearing Hub Assembly, a 30mm socket for the Axle Shaft nut, a thin Cold Chisel to help facilitate B.H.A. removal, the HARD part (its kinda "pressed" into the Knuckle, so you would "pry" it out a little at a time).

    There's no need to disassemble the Axle Shafts, the Bearing Hub Assembly is what ur wheels bolt to. Of course this doesn't "Fix" what's wrong, but it does allow you to drive it until you do. While you have it in this condition you might as well pull the Differential (paying ATTENTION to the Shims). you can get it fixed and POP it back in.

    Corrections appreciated if I've gotten socket sizes, or anything else, wrong.

   Jack

[Deadpool]

axle shaft is 36mm, but other than that.
I was informed by many others that i need to make sure that i use the outer shaft so that while driving it, the axle hub doesn't seperate because the outer axle is one thing that helps keep everything together (with the axle nut).

I just know that getting the hub assembly off will be tough, because I need to get the chisel. I got the sockets and the hand tools, just know that when I pulled the original Dana 30 I had apart, it was a major PITA to get the axle nut off without impacts. Ended up having to find impacts to pull them apart.

I have to get the locker before I can get anything fixed. That's going to be a bit because I don't have the spiders and it's pointless to go back to spiders when I have to have everything pulled apart anyway. So I will be covering the price of the replacement locker and just keeping it the way it is.

I'll be outside. If someone has any other suggestions, or able to give me a hand/someplace to work before I get this torn downn, PLEASE call/text me. I appreciate it.

[CJ8Ted]

I was informed by many others that i need to make sure that i use the outer shaft so that while driving it, the axle hub doesn't seperate because the outer axle is one thing that helps keep everything together (with the axle nut).

Correct,, Do not run a TJ, XJ, and most YJ dana 30s without the stub shafts and nuts in place. It is called a death nut for two reasons one is its tight the other is what could happen if you run without it. 

Ted

[Deadpool]

Well, front end is done. Just have to figure out what the leak is that I have in the transmission. I believe it's between the transmission and transfer. That's the ONLY piece that has been split, and that was put back together without a gasket or RTV. (didn't know I needed it because it wasn't there on the original build)

So I have to make sure all the bolts for the transmission & transfer case are tight, and top off the transmission. Anyone able to help with that, it's appreciated. I can go to you so it can be done right.

[(Tattoo) Jack]

   I stand corrected...